You're not allowed to come visit us without a stop at Mahabalipuram (and here). It's just too cool to miss. Ancient temples to explore, fascinating geology to discover, good food. The only drawback is the unbelievable heat. It always seems to be at least 10 degrees hotter there than it is in Chennai.
When I went with my parents and aunts, it was hot as usual, but for some reason it was far less crowded than it's been other times we've visited. The sites are usually packed with Indian tourists and a sprinkling of foreigners. This time we had the place pretty much to ourselves.
Our first stop was Pancha Rathas, built in the 7th century. One theory is that the Rathas were part of a school of architecture, which would explain the different temple styles and the fact that this shrine's top mimics the elephant rump right next to it.
No one really knows how the ancient Pallavas used the site. It could have been a holy site or a children's play area for all we know.
This shrine features a carving of Ardhanarishvara, the god that is half Shiva and half his consort Parvati. You can see it in the bottom right corner here, though I've got better pictures in previous posts. One idea behind the image is that the divine feminine (or shakti) is inseparable from the male form of the god.
Our intrepid travelers taking a break at the Rathas. (Shout-out to Kathy: Samuel just saw this picture and said, "There's Grandpa ... and Aunt Kathy." I asked if anyone else was in the picture. "Nope. Just Aunt Kathy." Not to worry, Mom. You are favored in plenty of other photos.)
And here's Aly impressing us with her fierce planking skills. I didn't time her, but she held this for quite a while.
Me and my Mommy and Daddy! (Mom: Samuel sees no one but you in this one.) Please ignore my horribly unflattering outfit. Did I mention how HOT it is here? Baggy cotton is a must ...
One more view of the Rathas, looking remarkably tourist-free.
Next we headed over to the Shore Temple, which is right on the beach near this fishing village.
Most of the shrines and monuments in Mahabalipuram are monolithic, but the Shore Temple is built of individual stones that were taken to this spot. There are lots of things to love about the Shore Temple, but what I love most is the mystery surrounding it. Marco Polo wrote about it, as did other early European explorers, and it's thought to be one of the legendary Seven Pagodas (and here and here). The 2004 tsunami uncovered evidence that the legends could be true after all.
This was my favorite of Aly's plank shots.
Here we are walking the path around the central shrine.
Dad on the stairs leading up to the shrine that houses the Shiva lingam. The Shore Temple is part archealogical site and part working temple. I'm not sure whether it's open to worshipers regularly or only on special occasions. There was a priest working at the inland-facing shrine during one of our visits, but this time all the shrines were locked up.
Three Carter sisters (plus one in spirit).
View coming around to the exit.
After seeing the Shore Temple, we took a lunch break at the Radisson's beach-side restaurant.
Then we went to see Descent of the Ganges, which is part bas-relief and part cave temple all carved out of one enormous rock. This image of Krishna holding up a mountain is in the cave temple. I couldn't remember the story while we were there, but Johnny filled me in once we got home. What would I do without my gloriously nerdy children? Villagers in the town of Brindavan neglected to worhip Indra, god of rain, who felt insulted and so sent devastating storms. Krishna lifted the mountain Govardhan to protect the village. Here's one version of the story.
More from the same relief. I especially like the flute player in the upper right and the mother and child in the center.
Looking out of the cave temple to a more modern, working temple across the street. By "modern" I mean it was probably built within the last three or four centuries.
The life-size elephants at Descent of the Ganges.
Aly and I found this small cave temple, Varaha cave temple, around the back of Descent of the Ganges. I had never seen it before. I couldn't get a good photo, but the ceiling is decorated with gorgeous patterns that reminded me of kolams.
Now don't you wish you lived this close to a UNESCO World Heritage site?
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