Mylapore is probably my favorite Chennai neighborhood. It's ancient and bustling, with the huge Kapaleeshwarar Temple at its center and all kinds of history alive and well in its streets.
This is what Mylapore usually looks like from the steps of Saravana Bhavan (best dosas in the city).
The steps gave us a great view of the Mylapore Festival's religious processions on Saturday. Traditionally, idols are placed on temple chariots, which devotees pull through the streets using ropes. I guess this is a modern take on that practice.
The two processions we saw were done by Krishna worshipers, so they shouted the Hare Krishna mantra as they pulled the idols through the streets.
A musician riding in front of one of the idols ...
There was a huge, noisy crowd with this one ...
After the processions, it was time for some dosa (crispy, savory pancakes) ... mmmm ... dosa. Johnny's in love with paneer (an Indian cheese) so he got a paneer dosa, which had paneer and spices melted inside. The sauces are (from left) sambar (a vegetable stew), tomato chutney, coriander chutney and coconut chutney. The tomato chutney is the spiciest, the coconut chutney is the mildest, but they're all delicious.
Saravana Bhavan is a Chennai chain, but I was ecstatic to learn that they have locations in the United States. My euphoria was punctured when I realized that the one we're likely to be closest to is all the way in Dallas. How far will I drive for masala dosa? Hmmmm ...
Samuel devoured his ...
Evie demonstrates the proper way to eat, with the right hand only. Notice the concentration as she tries to rip the dosa with one hand ...
Now she gets to enjoy the fruits of her labor. Evie's eating a masala dosa (my favorite), which has a potato and spice mixture rolled inside.
After our early dinner, we went in search of the kolam competition. This vendor of temple offerings is telling us we're in the wrong place.
We passed lots of flower sellers ...
... and fruit stalls ...
... and finally found the street that was roped off for the competition. A kolam is a geometrical drawing made with rice flour. Women throughout South India get up early every morning to draw them on the ground in front of their homes. It's part welcome mat, part prayer to goddess Lakshmi, and part folk art.
This video on You Tube gives a great overview of the importance of kolam drawing in Tamil culture.
By the time we got there, most women were finished with their drawings, but we did see some putting on the final touches.
The women use their fingers to control the powder's release and form the patterns.
Here we are with our friends Suyash and Cheryl admiring one woman's work.
John got some photos of artists with their creations. This woman made my favorite kolam in the competition. She told us it took her about half an hour to draw it.
I love the interlocking star in the center and the butterflies that form the outside border.
I love this photo. The artist looks both proud and humble at the same time.
Kolams are a daily sight here, in front of homes and businesses. People usually just walk right over them, so it was nice to see the work admired so openly.
I had to include this photo because it cracks me up! It looks like one of those travel shows, where the host comes walking out of a huge, noisy crowd to wax poetic about whatever exotic place he's visiting.
It was nice to go with Suyash and Cheryl. The kids love them, so it makes things a little easier for John and me. We like them for plenty of non-child-care-related reasons, too, of course :)
I'll end my post with individual shots of some of our favorite kolams. We were trying to keep track of kids in a pretty big crowd, so I'll warn you that some shots are taken from the hip. Enjoy!
This one was John's favorite and was drawing quite a crowd of admirers. It's incredibly intricate.
This last one features one of the symbols of Pongal. It's a festival of harvest and plenty, and one of the traditions is to allow a pot of milk to boil over on the stove. This kolam includes pots of boiling milk and images of temple lamps.
This is what Mylapore usually looks like from the steps of Saravana Bhavan (best dosas in the city).
The steps gave us a great view of the Mylapore Festival's religious processions on Saturday. Traditionally, idols are placed on temple chariots, which devotees pull through the streets using ropes. I guess this is a modern take on that practice.
The two processions we saw were done by Krishna worshipers, so they shouted the Hare Krishna mantra as they pulled the idols through the streets.
A musician riding in front of one of the idols ...
There was a huge, noisy crowd with this one ...
After the processions, it was time for some dosa (crispy, savory pancakes) ... mmmm ... dosa. Johnny's in love with paneer (an Indian cheese) so he got a paneer dosa, which had paneer and spices melted inside. The sauces are (from left) sambar (a vegetable stew), tomato chutney, coriander chutney and coconut chutney. The tomato chutney is the spiciest, the coconut chutney is the mildest, but they're all delicious.
Saravana Bhavan is a Chennai chain, but I was ecstatic to learn that they have locations in the United States. My euphoria was punctured when I realized that the one we're likely to be closest to is all the way in Dallas. How far will I drive for masala dosa? Hmmmm ...
Samuel devoured his ...
Evie demonstrates the proper way to eat, with the right hand only. Notice the concentration as she tries to rip the dosa with one hand ...
Now she gets to enjoy the fruits of her labor. Evie's eating a masala dosa (my favorite), which has a potato and spice mixture rolled inside.
After our early dinner, we went in search of the kolam competition. This vendor of temple offerings is telling us we're in the wrong place.
We passed lots of flower sellers ...
... and fruit stalls ...
... and finally found the street that was roped off for the competition. A kolam is a geometrical drawing made with rice flour. Women throughout South India get up early every morning to draw them on the ground in front of their homes. It's part welcome mat, part prayer to goddess Lakshmi, and part folk art.
This video on You Tube gives a great overview of the importance of kolam drawing in Tamil culture.
By the time we got there, most women were finished with their drawings, but we did see some putting on the final touches.
The women use their fingers to control the powder's release and form the patterns.
Here we are with our friends Suyash and Cheryl admiring one woman's work.
John got some photos of artists with their creations. This woman made my favorite kolam in the competition. She told us it took her about half an hour to draw it.
I love the interlocking star in the center and the butterflies that form the outside border.
I love this photo. The artist looks both proud and humble at the same time.
Kolams are a daily sight here, in front of homes and businesses. People usually just walk right over them, so it was nice to see the work admired so openly.
I had to include this photo because it cracks me up! It looks like one of those travel shows, where the host comes walking out of a huge, noisy crowd to wax poetic about whatever exotic place he's visiting.
It was nice to go with Suyash and Cheryl. The kids love them, so it makes things a little easier for John and me. We like them for plenty of non-child-care-related reasons, too, of course :)
I'll end my post with individual shots of some of our favorite kolams. We were trying to keep track of kids in a pretty big crowd, so I'll warn you that some shots are taken from the hip. Enjoy!
This one was John's favorite and was drawing quite a crowd of admirers. It's incredibly intricate.
This last one features one of the symbols of Pongal. It's a festival of harvest and plenty, and one of the traditions is to allow a pot of milk to boil over on the stove. This kolam includes pots of boiling milk and images of temple lamps.
- Happy Pongal!
No comments:
Post a Comment